18TH CENTURY SCOTTISH CLOTHING GUIDELINES

 

(Please note that the following are guidelines only but any alterations to costume must first be agreed and supported with research and primary evidence)

 

Highland Men

 

Basic Clothing

 

Leine: A plain linen shirt that came to the mid-thigh/knees was worn, usually collarless and tied with two simple ties not laced. The sleeves should be fairly full and with cuffs. Saffron shirts were no longer used by this period, according to Martin Martin they had died out 100 years ago.

 

Belted Plaid: Originally 12-18 foot long and made from two strips of 30 inches wide wool or (today) 4m of wool. It could either be checked, striped, or plain.  Highland Men of all social classes had a love of green and red.  The brightness of the two colours would have depended on individual wealth with the more muted reds and greens being more common amongst people of a lower social class.  Shepherds were known for having black and white plaids, this was because they spun and wove the undyed wool of black and white sheep. Plaids were fastened with a wooden or bone bodkin not a pennanular brooch (these had died out in 1100).

 

Trews: Mostly worn by the gentry. Made from tartan they were close fitted “trousers”, although baggy round the body, and fastened with buttons. The Highland chiefs and chieftains often wore them with a slightly smaller plaid worn across the body.

 

Vest: This was a form of waistcoat. It was often about 6in longer than their jacket. Buttoned down the front and collarless, sometimes had pockets. Made from wool this could be a variety of colours though muted reds, greens, blues, greys and browns were common. A linen vest could be made to avoid bulkiness.

 

Short Jacket: The Highlanders wore shorter jackets to allow for the plaid. In 1740, the jacket would have closed and buttoned down the front. It was collarless, with cuffs and two buttons fastening the cuffs. Buttons at this time were still cloth, metal buttons had not appeared. The jacket was again made from wool and would be in muted reds, greens, blues, greys and browns.

 

Bonnet: The poor man and Highlander still wore a bonnet. This was either knitted or woven and could be either blue, black or grey wool.

 

Footwear/Cuarans: The majority of people still went bare-foot, even if they had shoes. The thrifty would take off their shoes to walk into town and then put on their stockings and shoes on when they arrived. However, simple cuarans were also known. These were soft-soled shoes made from a piece of leather/hide and stitched so that, when tied, they covered the foot. (See picture) An example of a later version of this made from seal skin can be seen in the National Museum of Scotland, Chambers St.

 


 

Lowland Men

 

Basic Clothing

 

Shirt: A plain linen shirt that came to the mid-thigh was worn, usually collarless and tied with two simple ties not laced. The sleeves should be fairly full and with cuffs.

 

Waistcoat: The Lowland common man would have worn a longer waistcoat than the Highlander. At this time, it was still fashionable for waistcoats to come to the mid-thigh and have quite a full “skirt”. It was collarless and would have had pockets. The Lowland man’s waistcoat would be of finer material than the Highlander’s although it is unlikely that a commoner’s would have been patterned. A fine wool in muted colours would be most usual.

 

Jacket: Over the waistcoat the Lowland man would have had his jacket. This was of a similar style to the waistcoat being collarless and full-skirted but it would have been longer and with noticeably large cuffs.  Cuffs had folded back to the elbow but were beginning to decrease in size by 1740. The jacket would still have been able to fasten at the front, unlike at the end of the 18th century when coats were cut away from the front. Like the waistcoat, the jacket would have been made of wool and in muted colours.

 

Breeches: Made from wool these were knee-length “trousers” fastened at the waistband by two buttons and at the knee by one.  There was a short slit below the waistband buttons which did not fasten, so make sure your shirt is long enough! Breeches were commonly either brown, black or gray.

 

Stockings: To cover the legs between the shoes and breeches (and to show off your manly calves!) men wore knitted woollen stockings.  These are often white but could be other colours such as green or red.  They were not kilt socks.

 

Shoes: Again the poorest members of society would have gone bare-foot but those with shoes would have worn black, leather shoes commonly with a buckle and a long tongue.

 

Bonnet: The poor man and Highlander still wore a bonnet. This was either knitted or woven and could be either blue, black or grey wool.

 

Highland Ladies

 

Basic Clothing

 

Shift: All women wore shifts. Made from undyed linen they would have reached to the knees or mid-calf so as not to show below petticoats.  The neckline of shifts at this time was quite low, with modesty being provided by a kertch (a piece of fine cloth worn either loosely knotted or tucked into the stays). Necklines could have a drawstring.  A short ruffle of no more than 1in could be added round the neckline and cuffs according to taste. Sleeves were elbow length and full, unlike at the end of the century.

 

Petticoats x 2: The fullness of skirts was achieved by petticoats at this time.  The petticoat was three-quarter length and made from coarse Irish linen or wool. The petticoat tended to be shown at the front in this period so they were often red, although other colours such as green were known. Petticoats are a must to show off your costume properly.

 

Stays: All women (except “loose” women) wore stays. These were either fully boned or half-boned, and made from linen.  The armholes on a working woman’s stay would have been slightly larger to allow for greater movement. There are also accounts of working women wearing leather stays. These were of a very thick leather and scored along the lines where boning would normally go. Highland women were known to work in just their stays without a jacket.

 

Arisaid: The female version of the plaid, this was 3m of woollen cloth. Depending on what sources you read women either had more colourful and patterned arisaids or they had plain ones with the occasional stripe. Like the plaid there were a variety of ways it could be worn but the two most common are; over the head like a shawl and pinned either side to the front of the stays.

 

Apron: A linen, hemp or wool apron would have been worn over the petticoats and arisaid. There are reports of this being both blue as well as white.

 

Stockings: Stockings were worn underneath everything else and were gartered just above the knee. They were of knitted wool and were often red.

 

Short Jacket: A short jacket of wool or linen was also worn by Highland ladies and was similar in style to the men’s jacket. It buttoned at the front with cloth buttons and had fairly straight sleeves.

 

Head covering: There seem to be a variety of head coverings available to Highland women. A young newly wed woman was described as having worn a square of linen on her head, fastened with gold or silver pins. Elsewhere sources say that the hair was loose and long and held back by a linen band. The same head coverings as were available to Lowland women were also worn.

 

Footwear/Cuarans: Soft-soled shoes made from a piece of leather/hide and stitched so that, when tied, they covered the foot. (See picture) An example of a later version of this made from seal skin can be seen in the National Museum of Scotland, Chambers St.

 

 

Lowland Ladies

 

Basic Clothing

 

Headcovering: A linen cap was worn to cover the hair. Styles of caps at this time vary enormously. “Mob” caps were not worn.

 

Shift: A loose linen garment with a low neckline, elbow length full sleeves and reaching to the knees or mid-calf. A ruffle of 1in can be attached to the neck and cuffs.

 

Petticoats x 2: Three-quarter length and made from linen. These were often red or coloured as the petticoat showed through the gown at the front. Red flannel was popular. A band of decoration, in the form of different material, could be added a few inches from the hem.

 

Stays: All women wore stays. Either half-boned or fully boned they were believed to be the symbol of a modest lady – the concept of neatness and morality being connected at the time. Made from linen and boned with either wooden canes, broom or whalebone.

 

Gown: Over the shift, petticoat and stays was worn a gown. This was made from silk for rich ladies but wool for the commoner. The gown would have been open at the front, with a stomacher closing the gap on the bodice. The gown was fastened with lacing across the stomacher. The neckline was low with modesty again being retained by either knotting or tucking a fichu of muslin around the neckline. Sleeves were slightly beyond elbow length, showed the cuffs of the shift, and had substantial cuffs folding back to the elbow.

 

Apron: All working women would have worn an apron of undyed linen over their gown. The apron only covered the lower half of the body and tied around the waist.

 

Stockings: Knitted wool in either red, white or green and gartered above the knee.

 

Shoes: Again the poorer classes tended to go barefoot but otherwise they wore a shoe with a slight heel, long tongue and with a buckle. Shoes were mostly black.

 

NB. Ladies skirts did not sweep the floor, it was too impractical. Skirts at the time came to the shin showing a little of their red stockings and their shoes.

 

Alternative materials that are acceptable:

 

Linen: Calico, Heavy Cotton

Wool: Wool mix.

CONTEMPORARY ACCOUNTS OF SCOTTISH COSTUME

"They [the Scottish soliders] were recognized among the Irish Soldiers by the distinction of their arms and clothing, their habits and language, for their exterior dress was mottled cloaks of many colours (breacbhrait ioldathacha) with a fringe to their shins and calves, their belts over their loins outside their cloaks. Many of them had swords with hafts of horn, large and warlike, over their shoulders. It was necessary for the soldier to grip the very haft of his sword with both hands when he would strike a blow with it. Others of them had bows of carved wood strong for use, with well-seasoned strings of hemp, and arrows sharp-pointed whizzing in flight." (Quoted in McClintock, Old Highland Dress, p. 18: The Life of Aodh Ruadh O Domhnaill transcribed from the book of Lughaid O'Cleirigh. Irish Texts Society's publications, vol. XLII. Part I. Page 73. Extract dates to 1594 and is the first clear evidence of belted plaids being worn)

“a pair of new stays each half year, in which you shall lace so strait, that half a yard shall go round your middle” (Scots Magazine 1740 quoted in Scottish Costume 1560-1830, Maxwell and Hutchison, p.82)

“sometimes of one colour, scarlet, crimson, etc. but more commonly variegated” (Ramsay talking about the plaid, Scottish Costume 1560-1830, Maxwell and Hutchison, p.95)

 

“The pladds are about seven or eight yards long …they cover the whole body with ‘em from the neck to the knees excepting the right arm which they mostly keep at liberty.  Many of ‘em have nothing under thse garments besides waistcoats and shirts which descend no lower than the knees, and they so gird ‘em about the middle as to give ‘em the same length as the linen under ‘em and thereby supply the defect of drawers and breeches” (Early Travellers in Scotland, P. Hume p.270 quoted in A History of the Scottish People 1560-1830, T.C. Smout p.141-142)

 

“He was without shoes, stockings or breeches, in a short coat, with a shirt not much longer, which hung between his thighs and just hid his nakedness from two daughters” (Captain Edward Burt in c.1730 describing the Highland tacksman quoted in A History of the Scottish People 1560-1830, T.C. Smout p.316)

 

“the number of Highlanders that attended the table, whose feet and foul linen or woollen, I don’t know which, were more than a match for the odour of the dishes” (Captain Edward Burt in c.1730 quoted in A History of the Scottish People 1560-1830, T.C. Smout p.316)

 

“the tennantes and indwellers on these landis, are ordained to have readie tartans, short coats and trewes and short hose or red and grein set dyce, all broad springed” (1703, Court Books on the Regality of Grants quoted in A Short History of the Scottish Dress, R.M.D. Grange, p.56)

 

“many of the people wear Trowis, some of them very fine Waven, like Stockings of those made of Cloath; some are coloured, and others striped; the latter are well shap’d as the former, lying close to the Body from the middle downwards, and tied round with a belt above the Haunches” (1703, Martin Martin, Western Isles, quoted in A Short History of the Scottish Dress, R.M.D. Grange, p.60)

 

“The generality now wear shoes, having one thin sole only, and shaped after the right and left foot …” (1703, Martin Martin, Western Isles, quoted in A Short History of the Scottish Dress, R.M.D. Grange, p.60)

 

“But persons of distinction wear the Garb in fashion in the South of Scotland” (1703, Martin Martin, Western Isles, quoted in A Short History of the Scottish Dress, R.M.D. Grange, p.60)

“When they travel on foot, the plad is tied on the breast with a bodkin of bone or wood” (1703, Martin Martin, Western Isles, quoted in A Short History of the Scottish Dress, R.M.D. Grange, p.60)

 

“A few shillings will buy this dress for an Highlander …though of the coarsest cloth or stuff, fit to keep him warm in that cold climate” (Captain Edward Burt, 1726, quoted in A Short History of the Scottish Dress, R.M.D. Grange, p.67)

 

“They are all gentlemen, will take affront from no man, and insolent to the last degree …the absurdity is ridiculous to see a man in his mountain habit, armed with a broadsword, target, pistol, at his girdle a dagger, and a staff, walking down the High Street as upright and haughty as if he were a lord and withal driving a cow” (Daniel Defoe quoted in A Short History of the Scottish Dress, R.M.D. Grange, p.68)

 

“Their cloaths are composed of two short vests, the one above reaching only to the waste, the other about six inches longer, short stockings which reaches not quite to the knee and no breetches;” (1715, George Keith 10th Earl Marischal of Scotland quoted in A Short History of the Scottish Dress, R.M.D. Grange, p.69-70)

 

“dressed in their shash’d, short Waistcoats, a Trousing, with a Plaid or Cloak, and a blue Bonnet” (Thomas Pennant c.1730 A Journey Through Scotland, describing a Highland gentleman quoted in A Short History of the Scottish Dress, R. M. D. Grange, p.72)

 

“The wives of some of the more wealthy and substantial farmers and tradesmen had silk plaids; but by far the greater of the married women, red or striped worsted ones. Young women wore woollen cloaks, with hoods of the same kind of cloth …The women in general seldom put on shoes and stockings” (1742, The Statistical Account of Kilwinning, quoted in A Short History of Scottish Dress, R.M.D. Grange, p. 78)